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Dine Ma Der Lao Kitchen, Oklahoma City, Oklahoma

Lao food was once hard to find by name in American restaurants. But the chef Jeff Chanchaleune is one in a class of Lao American chefs boldly asserting their identity through food. And he is doing it on an artsy street in Oklahoma City. His cooking is unapologetic. Ground, roasted Thai chiles coat each grain of crispy rice in the nam khao. The moek paa — steamed catfish seasoned with two kinds of fish sauce and cooked in banana leaves — releases a pleasantly pungent fragrance when unwrapped. Coconut milk, galangal, makrut lime leaves and garlic weave eagerly through the food, and Mr. Chanchaleune wields these flavors with finesse.
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