Rock Climb Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Colorado

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Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is a Rock Climbing destination that offers vast opportunities to advanced climbers as it is known for its serious, traditional climbing values. The canyon is extremely deep and narrow. The depth of the canyon at Warner Point (the deepest section of canyon) is 2,722 ft. The Painted Wall is the tallest vertical wall in the state of Colorado with a height of 2,250 ft. In the area of the North and South Chasm Walls, where the majority of the climbing activity takes place, the depth of the canyon is 1,820 ft. The canyon is at its narrowest point in the Chasm View area, with a rim to rim distance of 1,100 ft. Black Canyon of the Gunnison is a total immersion climbing area for seasoned climbers. The National Park Service possesses copies of topographical maps and route information which have been provided by first ascent parties. A visit to the South Rim Visitor Center or North Rim Ranger Station will provide access to these valuable documents. Black Canyon is not a place for the beginning climber it seems. Climbers have documented 145 big-wall routes that are known by the Park Service; eight are rated at 5.8 and of these eight, only four have good information available and see regular ascents. Twenty one climbs have a rating of 5.9; five of these are aid routes and only six others see any significant climbing activity. The other one hundred and seventeen climbs have ratings between 5.10 and 5.13. All of the climbs within Black Canyon are multi-pitch traditional routes located in remote areas within the canyon. The National Park Service has rangers trained in high angle rescue, however, climbers need to keep in mind that any rescue operation within the park is difficult and requires an extended period of time. Finding themselves stuck on the cliffside due to underestimating a route is not cause for rescuing a climber at the Black Canyon. Climbers visiting the park are cautioned to be prepared for such challenges and able to endure an unexpected bivouac. Peak climbing season at the Black Canyon begins in mid-April and runs through the early part of June and then from mid-September through early November. Natural hazards found at the park during these time periods include frequent afternoon thunder showers, fully leafed-out poison ivy and approach gullies inhabited by ticks. An ice climbing route, Gandalf’s Beard, is located in Headquarters Draw. Climbers must be prepared for self-rescue. Rescues, when necessary, are highly technical and dangerous. Climbers need to be familiar with the guidance in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison Interim Climbing Management Plan. Most climbs begin their descent at the North Rim after participants meet up at the North Rim Campground. The North Rim visitor center maintains a board for informal monitoring of who is climbing which routes to preclude multiple parties from taking on the same course. All backcountry access, including climbing, requires a free permit. Permits are available from the North and South Rim visitor centers. When those facilities are closed, instructions are posted for self-registration.

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